Nov 1, 2009
On Oct 27th, we flew to Pokhara to visit our Nepal House Kaski facility.
There we renewed acquaintance with Shiva & Basanta and met the other counsellors Veena and Laxmi (who was just recently hired).
The facility is in the Pokhara suburb of Kaski and although just off a main road, is down a lane and in an almost semi-rural setting with tranquil views of farm animals, fields being farmed, and an incredible view of the sacred mountain, Fish Tail. The play therapy & art therapy rooms are brightly painted and present a very cheery atmosphere for the children. We also met Leslie Chessick, from Vancouver, who has been in Pokhara for a couple of weeks and will be staying another 2 months to provide additional training for our counsellors.
The day after we went to NHK, the counsellors went to prepare (paint) the therapy room which they will be using at the AIDS facility to counsel children with AIDS.
We really enjoyed meeting everyone and seeing the facility now operational -what a great way to finish off our trek.
While everyone was busy painting, Marty and I were treated to a Nepali lunch at the home of our guide, Shiva Thapa, and his beautiful wife, Sharmila. (If anyone is planning on visiting Nepal, we would highly recommend Shiva and suggest you visit his website at http://www.dreamdiscoverytreks.com/)
The last couple of days we have been real tourists - riding on the back of an elephant in Royal Chitwan looking for rhinos, which is a bit safer than on foot, like a French group discovered. They came across a rhino and her baby and all 14 of them had to scramble up a tree. Our guide also calmly told us that 8 days earlier, one of his friends got trampled and killed by charging rhino.
I think our favourite part of the Chitwan tour was seeing how the Tharu people live. Their homes have thatched-roofs with walls constructed of elephant grass and covered with a mixture of mud and dung. In contrast we did notice that many have electricity and tv antennae's perching on their roofs.
All in all, we have had an amazing journey but we are ready to board our plane and head back home to family and friends, and huge green salads.
Sunday, November 1, 2009
Monday, October 26, 2009
Kathmandu
Oct 27, 2009
Yesterday we arrived back in Kathmandu. We had the 1st flight out but when the incoming plane landed, there was mayhem and everyone, including ourselves rushed through the doors and on to the tarmac. Some people were waved on to the plane and the rest of us just waited. Then we were told there were 2 seats left and we could board. As we were three (Darcy, Marty & Shiva our guide) we declined to which the agent said "OK three!" So on we got and the plane immediately started to roll. The take off was a little longer than usual which makes me think we were slightly overloaded with 3 additional passengers as we lifted off with only a little runway to spare (after which there was a steep drop off over a precipitous cliff).
It was a great shock to get back to the hustle and bustle of Kathmandu but great to be able to have a fresh salad and a room with hot water. The variety of food is much greater and the costs are about 40% of what they were up country. Darcy is happy not to be eating Sherpa Stew 3 times a day!
Today we are leaving for Pokhara where Nepal House Kaski has their facilities. This will be our first visit there as last time we were here in 2006 the idea of Nepal House was just a glimmer in the imagination of a few dedicated people.
We'll report again once we've had our visit.
Marty & Darcy
Yesterday we arrived back in Kathmandu. We had the 1st flight out but when the incoming plane landed, there was mayhem and everyone, including ourselves rushed through the doors and on to the tarmac. Some people were waved on to the plane and the rest of us just waited. Then we were told there were 2 seats left and we could board. As we were three (Darcy, Marty & Shiva our guide) we declined to which the agent said "OK three!" So on we got and the plane immediately started to roll. The take off was a little longer than usual which makes me think we were slightly overloaded with 3 additional passengers as we lifted off with only a little runway to spare (after which there was a steep drop off over a precipitous cliff).
It was a great shock to get back to the hustle and bustle of Kathmandu but great to be able to have a fresh salad and a room with hot water. The variety of food is much greater and the costs are about 40% of what they were up country. Darcy is happy not to be eating Sherpa Stew 3 times a day!
Today we are leaving for Pokhara where Nepal House Kaski has their facilities. This will be our first visit there as last time we were here in 2006 the idea of Nepal House was just a glimmer in the imagination of a few dedicated people.
We'll report again once we've had our visit.
Marty & Darcy
Sunday, October 25, 2009
Back in Lukla
October 25th, Lukla
This morning we hiked our last stretch of the trek from Phakding to Lukla in 2 1/2 hours. Marty was like a horse heading for the barn - never saw anything so fast the entire trip.
The last two days have been very interesting for us as we retrace our steps and see how our perspective has changed since we started on the journey.
On our return, our room in Namche with a private bathroom and hot shower felt like we were living at the Ritz, whereas on the way out, our thoughts were probably more like "this will do".
During our trek, as we gained altitude the harsh realities of life on the mountain sunk in rather quickly. Beyond Namche it was pretty well squat toilets all the way. Marty killed himself laughing when I got excited after the porters told me I had an ensuite in Machhermo and then I discovered that the ensuite was a rather smelly squat toilet and that's it. A number of the squat toilets had rather spongy urine-soaked plywood floors with a rough rectangular hole cut in the middle. One was so wobbly, it conjured up images of the scene in 'Slum Dog Millionaire' and we were both rather tentative in using it.
Lukla is a permanent community, unlike places like Gorak Shep, or Thangnak, or Lobuche which pretty well close down when it is not trekking season. The cyber cafe we are using is in a place with a sign advertising that it is a Starbucks. What are the chances they will have my Earl Grey Tea Misto?
Ciao for now. Marty will try to write a little tomorrow if we get to Kathmandu.
This morning we hiked our last stretch of the trek from Phakding to Lukla in 2 1/2 hours. Marty was like a horse heading for the barn - never saw anything so fast the entire trip.
The last two days have been very interesting for us as we retrace our steps and see how our perspective has changed since we started on the journey.
On our return, our room in Namche with a private bathroom and hot shower felt like we were living at the Ritz, whereas on the way out, our thoughts were probably more like "this will do".
During our trek, as we gained altitude the harsh realities of life on the mountain sunk in rather quickly. Beyond Namche it was pretty well squat toilets all the way. Marty killed himself laughing when I got excited after the porters told me I had an ensuite in Machhermo and then I discovered that the ensuite was a rather smelly squat toilet and that's it. A number of the squat toilets had rather spongy urine-soaked plywood floors with a rough rectangular hole cut in the middle. One was so wobbly, it conjured up images of the scene in 'Slum Dog Millionaire' and we were both rather tentative in using it.
Lukla is a permanent community, unlike places like Gorak Shep, or Thangnak, or Lobuche which pretty well close down when it is not trekking season. The cyber cafe we are using is in a place with a sign advertising that it is a Starbucks. What are the chances they will have my Earl Grey Tea Misto?
Ciao for now. Marty will try to write a little tomorrow if we get to Kathmandu.
Friday, October 23, 2009
October 24th Namche Bazaar
WE DID IT! Our trek is almost over and it has been one of the most exhilarating, challenging and eventful experiences we have ever shared.
Since leaving Namche, the weather has been clear and the scenery breathtaking. We’ve come to recognize many 6000, 7000 and 8000 metre peaks along the route – Thamserku and Kantega, Cholatse and Tawoche, Cho-oyu and Machhermo, Nuptse and Lohtse, Everest, and our favourite – Ama Dablam. Having only seen the summit of Everest from the western side, Nuptse and Lohtse seem more imposing. Colourful prayer flags indicate that we are approaching either a new settlement or a peak. Cowbells ringing in the distance announce the arrival of an approaching yak train.
The trails are heavily trafficked by animal trains of yaks and jhokpas, porters and trekkers. Many of the trails are narrow and not for the faint of heart as they cling to steep, precipitous mountainsides. One misstep and one could fall 1000 ft into a river below.
Speaking of missteps, Darcy has had a few. In her inimitable fashion, she got sideswiped by a motorcyclist in
Then 5 days into the trek she sprained her ankle while trying to photograph yet another yak while walking. (The message here could be no “yakking” while hiking). After hiking to Machhermo, we decided to spend an extra day to acclimatize, to let Darcy rest her leg and also to visit the local clinic about her foot. The doctor said it was a classic sprain and taped it up. Beyond that, our choices were to continue on or get helicoptered out. (We have heard on average about 2 helicopters per day evacuating people with AMS or injuries from nasty falls)
Continuing on, Darcy managed to climb the very steep Cho-La (ChoLa pass) with little difficulty in spite of her ankle and then on a rather flat section of path, slipped on a patch of ice breaking a bone in 2 places at the base of her pinky. Luckily a Swiss couple had some tape and with an aluminum tent peg, fashioned a splint which she used until we visited a medical clinic in Pheriche, 4 days later.
After all these events, Marty thinks Darcy should answer to the name “Lucky”
While we originally thought EBC would be our greatest challenge, it was Cho-La that caused us the greatest concern, after other trekkers warned us how difficult it was and learning that the week prior it was closed due to hazardous snow conditions. It was a steep, snowy and rocky ascent up to an elevation of approximately 17,500 feet. Starting in Thangnak and finishing up in Tukla, it was a tiring, but satisfying, 10 ½ hour day.
After hiking up both Gokyo Ri and Cho-La (both roughly the same elevation as EBC), we both felt confident that we would be able to face EBC and Kala Pattar.
The hike to EBC was different and more challenging perhaps than we’d imagined. It was very rocky as we had to cross the lateral moraine of the Khumbu Glacier which was a mixture of ice and rock. Because it is not the Everest climbing season (usually April May), EBC was virtually deserted – just prayer flags, memorials and 2 tents set up for workers who were removing the aluminum ladders from the Khumbu Ice Fall after an autumn attempt on Everest by an Indian expedition. When we arrived at EBC, we met up with a British Royal Navy team who were filming a documentary called “Battlescarred”. Ben, a 22 year old, who’d lost an arm and leg in
The following morning we decided to climb up Kala Pattar for sunrise. Starting at 4 am, with our headlamps, it was step, breathe, step breathe, taking small steps, walking steadily uphill for almost 2 hours to the summit of 5,550 metres (18,315 ft). At times, we’d turn off our lights and watch for falling stars. Venus shone brightly to the right of Everest. Arriving before sunrise, we sat on the peak and froze for about 20 minutes in the -10 C, watching the sun rise over various peaks. It was then that Shiva said it will take some time for the sun to hit Everest. We were about to descend when we heard a deafening avalanche release just beside us on Pomori. It was an incredible sight to witness.
Sunday, October 11, 2009
Acclimatization Day
Oct 12th
A heavy mist covered Namche this morning as we headed out for our acclimatization hike to the green roofed villages of Kunde (12,672 ft) and Khumjung (12,475 ft). We were out of breath right away as we had to climb up steep steps carved in the hill above the town for more than an hour. After that it was up and down until a final descent into Kunde. Along the way we passed (always on the left) numerous miniature stupas (shrines) called "schorten", usually preceded by stone "mani walls" laden with flat stones inscribed with the prayer "o mani padme om". At the final schorten above Kunde, we added our own prayer scarves to the collection to ensure our safe journey. At Kunde we visited the small medical clinic funded by Canadian members of the Sir Hillary Foundation. As we walked to Khumjung we passed fields bordered by low stone walls festooned with hand flattened cow dung, which was being dried for winter fuel. After a stop at the local monastery, we headed for Everest Bakery to enjoy some tasty ("mito" in Nepali) apple pie and cinnamon buns before returning home. The hike back started with an initial short, but steep ascent and ended with a spectacular view right above Namche.
We are getting into a daily routine of rising at 6 am, breakfast at 7 am and starting off on our hike by 7:30 or 8 am. It is cold in the mountains late in the afternoon, so as soon as we arrive at the guesthouse, we shower (but today will probably be our last for 10 days), change into our warm clothes and sit in the restaurant eating, sipping tea, and reading until we hit the sack at about 8 pm.
We have really enjoyed the trek so far, chatting with other trekkers along the way and hearing their amazing stories - like Bill, another Canadian, who is 77 years old and hiking to Everest Base Camp for the fifth time.
Tomorrow we head off to Dole, a 7 hour hike which will be relatively easy until the last 2 hours or so when it ends with another steep ascent of approximately 1600'.
This could be our last blog for a while as there may be no internet access beyond this point.
A heavy mist covered Namche this morning as we headed out for our acclimatization hike to the green roofed villages of Kunde (12,672 ft) and Khumjung (12,475 ft). We were out of breath right away as we had to climb up steep steps carved in the hill above the town for more than an hour. After that it was up and down until a final descent into Kunde. Along the way we passed (always on the left) numerous miniature stupas (shrines) called "schorten", usually preceded by stone "mani walls" laden with flat stones inscribed with the prayer "o mani padme om". At the final schorten above Kunde, we added our own prayer scarves to the collection to ensure our safe journey. At Kunde we visited the small medical clinic funded by Canadian members of the Sir Hillary Foundation. As we walked to Khumjung we passed fields bordered by low stone walls festooned with hand flattened cow dung, which was being dried for winter fuel. After a stop at the local monastery, we headed for Everest Bakery to enjoy some tasty ("mito" in Nepali) apple pie and cinnamon buns before returning home. The hike back started with an initial short, but steep ascent and ended with a spectacular view right above Namche.
We are getting into a daily routine of rising at 6 am, breakfast at 7 am and starting off on our hike by 7:30 or 8 am. It is cold in the mountains late in the afternoon, so as soon as we arrive at the guesthouse, we shower (but today will probably be our last for 10 days), change into our warm clothes and sit in the restaurant eating, sipping tea, and reading until we hit the sack at about 8 pm.
We have really enjoyed the trek so far, chatting with other trekkers along the way and hearing their amazing stories - like Bill, another Canadian, who is 77 years old and hiking to Everest Base Camp for the fifth time.
Tomorrow we head off to Dole, a 7 hour hike which will be relatively easy until the last 2 hours or so when it ends with another steep ascent of approximately 1600'.
This could be our last blog for a while as there may be no internet access beyond this point.
The trek really starts
Oct 11th
Today was our first real challenge. We left Phakding at 8800 feet and finished up at Namche Bazaar at approximately 11,500 feet.
It was a gloriously sunny day, warm enough to hike in shorts and t-shirts. Initially the trekking was quite slow because of the johkpa traffic (the yak/cow cross we talked about yesterday). The path led us through small villages, along rushing rivers, and over a number of long suspension bridges, with their faded prayer flags blowing in the breeze. There were hundreds of trekkers on this portion of the trail but apparently it thins out after Namche as people go on different routes.
After about 3 hours of hiking we started our climb to Namche Bazaar, an altitude gain of roughly 700 meters, which took us about an hour and 45 minutes. While this is less of a gain than the Grouse Grind at home it is a little more challenging as we are just beginnnimg to acclimatize to the altitude.
The operative word is still "bistari bistari".
Namche is a colourful town hanging on the side of a steep hill (one that we will be climbing tomorrow as we make an acclimatization hike to Khunde and Khumjung and back). We feel we are staying in luxury at Khumbu Lodge as we have what appears to be a real bed and we both had an incredibly hot shower.
Next blog tomorrow after our day hike.
Today was our first real challenge. We left Phakding at 8800 feet and finished up at Namche Bazaar at approximately 11,500 feet.
It was a gloriously sunny day, warm enough to hike in shorts and t-shirts. Initially the trekking was quite slow because of the johkpa traffic (the yak/cow cross we talked about yesterday). The path led us through small villages, along rushing rivers, and over a number of long suspension bridges, with their faded prayer flags blowing in the breeze. There were hundreds of trekkers on this portion of the trail but apparently it thins out after Namche as people go on different routes.
After about 3 hours of hiking we started our climb to Namche Bazaar, an altitude gain of roughly 700 meters, which took us about an hour and 45 minutes. While this is less of a gain than the Grouse Grind at home it is a little more challenging as we are just beginnnimg to acclimatize to the altitude.
The operative word is still "bistari bistari".
Namche is a colourful town hanging on the side of a steep hill (one that we will be climbing tomorrow as we make an acclimatization hike to Khunde and Khumjung and back). We feel we are staying in luxury at Khumbu Lodge as we have what appears to be a real bed and we both had an incredibly hot shower.
Next blog tomorrow after our day hike.
Saturday, October 10, 2009
Yahoo!!!
We actually made it out today. It was a glorious flight and not quite as hair-raising as the You-Tube video suggests. We stopped for tea in a beautiful little teahouse in Lukla while our porters Indra and Gurkha went to retrieve their gear and then we headed out for a leisurely (and easy)hike downhill to Phakding. So far, the trail reminds us of the Annapurna trek - winding pathways passing through tiny villages of stone buildings with bright blue trim, women drying corn on roofs or on the ground, and porters weighted down with huge cargos of anything from a satellite dishes to chickens to trekkers gear. Instead of goats and cows, today we were accompanied by pack animals that looked like small yaks but were actually a cross between a yak and a cow.
We are staying in a guesthouse tonight with our own private bathroom with a western toilet and possibly hot water. Life is good.
Tomorrow will be one of our toughest days as we have a 6 or 7 hour hike ending with the equivalent of a Grouse Grind at the end at 3450 metres. Our word for the day will be 'bistari' (slowly)
Namaste until tomorrow.
We are staying in a guesthouse tonight with our own private bathroom with a western toilet and possibly hot water. Life is good.
Tomorrow will be one of our toughest days as we have a 6 or 7 hour hike ending with the equivalent of a Grouse Grind at the end at 3450 metres. Our word for the day will be 'bistari' (slowly)
Namaste until tomorrow.
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